In our previous blog , we explained what causes dark spots during pregnancy and how you can avoid developing them. Now we are going to focus on the ingredients that are mainly used in cosmetic products to make these dark spots disappear. These can not only be used during or after pregnancy, but also if you suffer from dark spots in general .
Treatment of dark spots: prescription-free
Due to concerns about the safety of hydroquinone , milder alternatives are on the market to help reduce dark spots in a safe and gentler way. The following ingredients can be found in cosmetic products for hyperpigmentation/melasma. Some (e.g., azalaic acid) may still be prescription in high concentrations at times.
Azelaic acid is used for hyperpigmentation and acne. 25% azelaic acid gives similar results to 4% hydroquinone without the side effects.
Niacinamide (1%) or Vitamin B3 is also used to reduce pigmentation and acne. It acts as a depigmentation agent by inhibiting the transfer of melanin-filled cells (melanosomes) to the top layer of skin (epidermis).
Glycolic acid (5-10%) is an AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) that appears to have a beneficial effect in reducing the appearance of pigmentation. It is best known for chemically removing dead skin cells (exofoliation), but it can also reduce melanocyte production of melanin. It is often combined with other depigmentation agents.
Kojic acid is a depigmenting agent used in concentrations of 2-4%. It may cause some irritation and redness. It is an effective ingredient to reduce hyperpigmentation and is sometimes combined with glycolic acid.
Retinol is the alcohol form of retinoic acid. It is less irritating and more stable in cosmetic formulas. It is less effective for reducing dark spots, but still a good and milder alternative to the more aggressive retinoids. It is usually used in concentrations between 0.1 and 1%.
Mequinol is used in concentrations of 2-20%. It is a derivative of hydroquinone and is more effective when combined with tretinoin (0.01%).
Arbutine is also a derivative of hydroquinone but has a milder effect.
Glabridin (liquorice extract) is a depigmenting agent, usually used in concentrations between 10-40%.
Soy-based extracts are used to treat hyperpigmentation, but also have an antioxidant effect on top of that.
Beauty salon treatment
Laser : If none of the above ingredients have worked for you, you can undergo laser and light therapy treatments in beauty clinics performed by trained staff.
Microneedling : This treatment promotes wound healing by deliberately creating small wounds in the skin and helps to fade dark spots.
Microdermabrasion : In this treatment, the upper layers of the skin that contain the pigment (= melanin) are basically scraped off.
However, the hyperpigmentation can still come back . Therefore sun protection on a daily basis is extremely important as one of the ways to prevent this. If spots reappear, use topical products (as mentioned above) as soon as possible to avoid expensive treatments later on.
Treatment of dark spots: prescription required
Hydroquinone
Hydroquinone is an effective ingredient that reduces dark spots on the skin by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase , which enables the production of melanin. It also breaks down the melanocytes (cells that produce melanin) to get rid of the excess pigment. The effects are visible after consistent treatment of the spots for about 5-7 weeks and sometimes need to be continued for up to a year, depending on your skin.
Unfortunately, the use of hydroquinone has side effects such as irritation, redness, a stinging sensation and allergic reactions . These side effects depend on the concentration of the ingredient and the duration of treatment. There is also some safety concern , which is why hydroquinone has been banned in cosmetic products in many countries (such as European countries). The use of hydroquinone is not recommended during pregnancy .
Retinoids
Retinoids are powerful vitamin A derivatives commonly used for acne, hyperpigmentation and aging. Retinoids are known to accelerate cell turnover , which is why there is not enough time for the keratinocytes to absorb the melanin that normally causes the pigment formation. In addition , tretinoin or retinoic acid reduces melanin production by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase . It is often combined with corticosteroids and hydroquinone for an even better effect.
It cannot be used during pregnancy as it may cause malformation of the fetus. This is usually the case with oral intake. Still, it is not recommended to use it on the skin. As mentioned earlier for hydroquinone, retinoids can also cause skin irritation and redness .
Conclusion
If you already have pigmentation, it is advised to wait until after the baby is born to treat it, as the constant hormonal trigger for developing melasma at that point will thwart any treatment. Sometimes pigment spots can disappear on their own after pregnancy.
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Skin aging is a very complex process that is influenced by both internal (your DNA) and external factors (such as the sun, pollution, weather conditions, smoking...). Every skin is unique and the same can be said of the skin aging process.
